How to Clean a Masterbuilt Electric Smoker
Electric smokers clean differently from pellet or charcoal cookers — no ash, but heating elements and water pans add their own complications. Here's the routine for any Masterbuilt electric model.
Published April 12, 2026 · 5 min read
Electric smokers are the simplest smoker design: an insulated box with a heating element at the bottom, a small wood-chip tray above the element, and a water pan to add moisture. Masterbuilt dominates this category, particularly with their 30-inch and 40-inch units.
The cleaning routine is correspondingly simple — no ash, no creosote production at the levels of stick-burners — but with three specific concerns: water management, electrical component protection, and gasket maintenance for sealing.
What’s different about an electric smoker
No combustion ash. The heating element is electric — there’s no ash, no firepot, no chimney. This eliminates the most labor-intensive part of pellet or offset cleaning.
Water pan central. Most electric smokers use a water pan to maintain humidity. The pan accumulates drippings during cooks and needs management between sessions.
Heating element exposure. The element sits at the bottom of the chamber, below the wood chip tray and water pan. Grease can drip onto the element, where it then bakes into a hard crust over multiple cooks. Severely-coated elements heat slower and burn out faster.
Gasket sensitivity. Electric smokers depend on a tight door seal to maintain temperature efficiently. The gasket is more critical here than on combustion smokers (which have continuous fresh-air intake by design).
After-cook routine (10 minutes)
Slightly longer than pellet/charcoal because of water management:
Empty the water pan. Don’t leave standing water inside the chamber. Standing water + warm interior + closed lid = mold growth within days.
Empty the chip tray. Wood chip residue is mostly carbon dust. Brush or vacuum out.
Brush the cooking grates. While still warm.
Wipe down any visible drippings on the heating element. With the element cool. A damp paper towel held with tongs handles this — never spray water on the element directly.
Leave the door cracked or open until the chamber is fully dry. Closed doors trap moisture. Cracked doors let the chamber air-dry. Re-close once the interior is no longer humid to the touch.
Monthly routine (15-20 minutes)
With the cooker cool and unplugged:
- Wash the water pan, drip pan, chip tray, and grates in hot soapy water. Dry thoroughly.
- Wipe the chamber interior with a damp soapy rag. Door, walls, ceiling, floor.
- Wipe the heating element exterior with a damp rag (lightly damp — not dripping). Stubborn baked-on grease can be scraped with a plastic scraper. Don’t immerse the element in water.
- Inspect and wipe the door gasket. Buildup on the gasket reduces sealing.
- Check the meat probe wires and internal temp probe for grease buildup. Wipe clean.
Twice-a-year deep clean
In addition to monthly:
- Replace the door gasket if showing wear. Look for cracks, charring, or compression. Gaskets last 1-3 years on electric smokers; replacement is $10-20 and owner-serviceable.
- Inspect the heating element for damage. Cracks in the element coating mean the element needs replacement.
- Check internal wiring for grease intrusion. Especially around the temperature controller area at the bottom of the cooker. Grease buildup near electronics can cause control issues.
- Verify temperature accuracy. Compare displayed temp to a separate probe thermometer over a 30-minute test cycle. Most controllers are accurate within 5-10°F; greater drift warrants attention.
Masterbuilt-specific issues
Door latch wear. The latch mechanism can loosen over time, reducing seal pressure. Tighten the screws or replace the latch as needed.
Temperature controller failure. Symptoms: cooker won’t reach set temp, displays error codes, won’t turn on. Replacement controllers are model-specific, usually $50-100, and a 30-minute install.
Heating element burnout. Typically year 5-8 on regularly-used models. Symptoms: cooker runs but doesn’t reach high temps, or won’t heat at all. Replacement elements are $30-60.
Chip tray rust. The chip tray sits directly above the heating element where moisture from wood chips can pool. The tray is the first component to rust. Replacements are inexpensive ($10-15) and routine.
Gasket compression. Faster than pellet smoker gaskets because the door is opened more often (every cook involves multiple opens for chip refills, water pan checks). Replace at first signs of compression.
Mold prevention specific to electrics
Electric smokers are uniquely prone to mold growth because:
- The water pan introduces moisture every cook
- The cooker is often closed and stored damp
- The interior temperature stays above ambient longer than other smokers (electric heat dissipates slowly)
Prevention:
- Empty the water pan after every cook
- Leave the door cracked until the interior is fully dry
- Run a 30-minute dry-fire after wet cooks (water, vegetables, marinades)
- Clean monthly even if the cooker hasn’t been used much
If mold does appear, see Mold in your smoker — is it safe?. Electric smokers can be remediated using the same approach as other cookers.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use water to clean the inside of an electric smoker?
Yes — but unplug first, and don't let water reach the heating element interior. Wiping the chamber with a damp soapy rag is fine and effective. What you can't do is pour water in or pressure-spray the interior.
How often should I empty the water pan?
After every cook. Always. Water sitting in a closed warm chamber is the leading cause of electric-smoker mold. Even if you've only smoked for an hour, empty the pan before storage.
My Masterbuilt won't reach high temperatures anymore — is it the heating element?
Possibly, but check the door gasket first. A worn gasket leaks heat and looks like a heating-element problem. If the gasket is fine, the heating element is the next suspect. If the controller appears to work normally but heat output is low, the element is likely failing.
Can I leave my Masterbuilt outside year-round?
With a fitted weather cover, in dry climates, possibly. In humid or wet climates, the moisture intrusion eventually damages the controller and electrical components. Storing under a covered porch or in a garage extends the cooker's life significantly.
Do electric smokers produce creosote?
Less than combustion smokers, but yes. The wood chips smoking on the chip tray produce real smoke, which deposits some creosote on the chamber walls. Less than a Traeger or offset, and dramatically less than a stick-burner. Monthly cleaning handles it.
Related reading
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Mold in Your Smoker — Is It Safe? Can You Save It?
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